I have to be honest with you. Before this trip I thought two days in Seville would be enough. I was wrong. The city has a way of revealing itself slowly — around every corner, down every narrow street, through every ornate archway — and by the time you start to feel like you actually understand it, it’s time to leave. Give Seville at least three nights. You will not regret it.
We arrived on Easter Saturday as part of our Curated Journeys Spain and France trip, and what we walked into was one of the most extraordinary travel experiences either of us has ever had. Semana Santa — Holy Week — is a very big deal in Seville. The city essentially becomes an open air procession for the entire week leading up to Easter Sunday, and we arrived right in the middle of it. Nothing I read online specifically called out Holy Saturday as a significant day for processions, but we turned a corner near the Cathedral and stopped in our tracks. The candlelight, the music, the silence of the crowd. Nobody planned that moment. It just found us. And that, honestly, is the best kind of travel.
Here is everything we did, everything we ate, and everything you need to know before you go.
START WITH AN EGG TART ON THE CATHEDRAL STEPS
Before any sightseeing, before any tours, on Easter Sunday morning we walked to De Nada Fabrica de Pasteis — a Portuguese style pastry shop near the Cathedral — grabbed egg tarts, and sat on the rear steps of the Cathedral de Sevilla to watch the city wake up. It cost almost nothing, it took twenty minutes, and it set the tone for the entire day. If you are looking for a low key, perfect first morning in Seville, that is it.
THE ARCHIVO GENERAL DE INDIAS — THE MOST OVERLOOKED BUILDING IN SEVILLE
Most people walk straight past the Archivo General de Indias on their way to the Cathedral. Don’t. This UNESCO World Heritage Site holds the original documents from the Spanish colonization of the Americas — Columbus’s logs, letters from conquistadors, trade records, maps. All of it is inside this building. We happened to be in the courtyard when the Cathedral bells rang at noon and just stood there and listened. One of those unplanned moments that stays with you.
THE REAL ALCÁZAR — BOOK THIS BEFORE YOU BOOK ANYTHING ELSE
The Real Alcázar is the non-negotiable of Seville. A royal palace that has been continuously occupied since the 10th century, it is still used by the Spanish royal family today which makes it the oldest royal palace still in active use in Europe. We booked a guided tour with Naturanda Turismo Ambiental and I cannot recommend a guided tour here strongly enough. This place has so many layers of history that walking through it without context means missing most of what makes it extraordinary.Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit tellus, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, pulvinar dapibus leo.
For the Game of Thrones fans — yes, this is Dorne. The Water Gardens, the Hall of Ambassadors, the gardens — all filmed here. Walking through those spaces is a genuinely surreal experience even if you are not a particular fan of the show.
The gardens alone could take hours. Peacocks, orange trees, fountains, tiled pathways — exactly as beautiful as every photograph and somehow still better in person. Book your tickets online well in advance, especially if you are visiting around any public holiday. You cannot wing the Alcázar.
THE CATHEDRAL OF SEVILLE AND THE GIRALDA TOWER
The Cathedral of Seville is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and it feels like it from the moment you walk through the doors. The altarpiece is one of the largest in the world, the pipe organ is spectacular, and yes — the tomb of Christopher Columbus is here. Four royal pallbearers depicted in bronze carrying the coffin, representing the four kingdoms of Spain at the time of his voyages. You stand in front of it and take a minute.
We also climbed the Giralda tower. Honest assessment: it is a lot of effort for a partially obstructed view in a crowd. If you have mobility concerns or you are short on time, I would not stress about the tower climb. The inside of the Cathedral itself is worth far more of your time.
AIRE ANCIENT BATHS — BOOK THIS BEFORE YOUR TRIP
On day two we booked the AIRE Ancient Baths, located inside a 16th century Mudejar style palace right in the heart of Seville. We did their Escape Together experience — thermal baths at different temperatures, a relaxing massage for two covering back, arms, legs, and feet, plus two glasses of cava. The whole thing is candlelit and the space is extraordinary. It is one of those experiences that sounds indulgent and absolutely is, and I have zero regrets about it. If you are going to Seville with a partner, book this. It fills up fast so do it well before your trip.
PLAZA DE ESPAÑA — YES, THE STAR WARS ONE
From the baths we walked to the Plaza de España, built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition. If it looks familiar it should — this is where they filmed Naboo in Star Wars Attack of the Clones. The semicircular plaza, the canal, the ceramic tile bridges representing every province of Spain. Even if Star Wars means nothing to you, this is one of the most visually stunning public spaces in Europe. Wide open, gorgeous, and completely free to visit. Do not skip it.
THE SEVILLE FOOD TOUR — WHERE THE TRIP REALLY CAME ALIVE
That evening we did a food tour with Sevilla Food Tours and it became one of the genuine highlights of the entire trip. Four stops through the historic center, each one pairing local wine with traditional Andalusian dishes. Here is exactly where we went and what we ate so you can find these places yourself:
First stop was La Antigua Bodeguilla — one of the oldest bars in Seville. We had Chicarrón de Cádiz, which is Iberian pork belly slowly fried in its own fat with garlic, oregano and paprika, served cold in thin slices with lemon and salt. We also had the Montadito Pringá — slow cooked pork and beef with chorizo and morcilla on crusty bread. And Altramuces, which are lupin beans, a classic Spanish bar snack. To drink, Tinto de Verano — wine and lemon Fanta. Not Sangria. Locals do not drink Sangria. Remember that.
Second stop was La Escalona Vinos and Tapas. The smoked aged tuna with almond on top was a standout — it tasted nothing like fish, more like a smoked dried meat. The Shark Bites, which are actually cod, were lightly battered and delicious. We also tried the Solear Barbadillo Manzanilla, a sherry that looks like a white wine, smells sweet, and somehow tastes like whiskey. Interesting is the right word for it.
Third stop was Maestro Marcelino for a meat and cheese board — chorizo, salchichón, jamón, and queso de cabra Payoya. We polled our group on the favorite and most people picked the salchichón. The simple cheap sausage beat everything else on the board. Three drinks in, we were all very enthusiastic about this result.
Final stop was Eme de Mariano on Calle Cister — fish soup and paella to finish. A proper sit down moment to end the evening. The wine pairings across all four stops were well chosen and the historic center coverage was excellent.
A food tour is one of the best ways to cover a lot of ground in a new city quickly and get real context for what you are eating and drinking. In Seville specifically it is a great way to understand Andalusian cuisine beyond the tourist menus.
WHERE WE ENDED DAY ONE
After the Alcázar and Cathedral we had dinner at Al Solito Posto, an Italian restaurant in Seville that turned out to be a genuinely great call. The Canasta di Cozze al Inferno — a pizza dough basket with mussels — and the Ravioli stuffed with Iberian pork cheeks in Payoyo cheese sauce were both outstanding. Sometimes the best meal of a day in Spain is Italian. You just go with it.
THE CATHEDRAL AT NIGHT
Walk back past the Cathedral after dark before you go to bed. I am not going to over describe it. Just do it.
HOW MANY DAYS DO YOU NEED IN SEVILLE
Three nights minimum. Two is not enough. The city deserves more than a rushed day at the Alcázar and a walk around the Cathedral. Give yourself a morning to just wander with nowhere to be, an afternoon at the AIRE baths, an evening on a food tour, and at least one sunset from a rooftop bar. That is a Seville trip worth having.
If your dates line up with Semana Santa, plan carefully. The city is full, some attractions have modified hours, and the processions change the flow of the streets completely. It is absolutely worth experiencing but it requires more advance planning than a regular visit.
PRACTICAL TIPS BEFORE YOU GO
- Book the Real Alcázar online before your trip — especially around any holiday period. The queues without a ticket are significant and timed entry slots fill up.
- Book AIRE Ancient Baths in advance. This one surprises people by filling up faster than expected.
- Get a Sevilla Food Tours booking in before you arrive if you want a specific evening. Popular departure times go quickly in high season.
- Tinto de Verano is wine and lemon Fanta. Order it everywhere. It is not Sangria and it is better.
- April is a beautiful time to visit Seville — warm, not yet the brutal summer heat, and if your dates overlap with Semana Santa you are in for something special.
WATCH THE FULL EPISODE
Everything in this post comes from our Curated Journeys travel vlog series documenting our Spain and France trip. Watch the full Seville episode on YouTube — linked below — to see the Real Alcázar, the food tour, the Cathedral at night, and the Semana Santa procession we stumbled into on Easter Sunday.
Seville is one of those cities that gets under your skin. The architecture, the food, the pace of life, the history on every single corner — it adds up to something that is genuinely hard to leave. We came for two days and wished we had stayed a week.
If this has you thinking about planning your own trip to Seville or Andalusia, I would love to help you build it. At THK Travel Advisors we create completely tailor-made itineraries for Spain, France, the UK, Ireland, and beyond — every detail handled from the first conversation to the moment you get home. Reach out at thktravel.com or call us at 408-785-8340. Let’s start planning your journey.
